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HomeFeaturesAI Project Build: 2015 ZR6000 Tucker Hibbert Race Replica

AI Project Build: 2015 ZR6000 Tucker Hibbert Race Replica

I recently purchased a 2015 ZR6000 Tucker Hibbert Race Replica from Thomas Sno Sports. This model always held a sweet spot in my heart, and knowing only a couple hundred were made, I jumped at the chance to buy this rough-around-the-edges trade-in. Before we look at the purchase, here’s a bit of background.

Tucker visiting the TRF Factory during the production of his 2015 Race Replica

Tucker unveiled his second generation signature snowmobile for the 2015 model year featuring Arctic Cat’s new 6000 C-TEC2 engine, proudly made in St. Cloud, Minn. At the time, it was extremely important to Tucker that his signature model had a 600cc motor considering he raced one on the snocross track.

A Stock Image taken by Arctic Cat of the 2015 ZR6000 Tucker Hibbert Race Replica. This unit was designed with white number plates, but by production rolled around, Tucker had wrapped up the National Snocross Championship and number plate backgrounds were changed to Red.

A few of the Race Replica features included:

• 6000 C-TEC2 2-Stroke Engine
• Tucker Hibbert Signature Series FOX FLOAT 3 EVOL RC2 Front Ski Shocks
• Tucker Hibbert Signature Series FOX ZERO C2 and ZERO RC2 Track Shocks
• All shocks came with genuine Kashima Coating
• Tucker Hibbert’s 2015 Race Graphics
• Stud Boy Traction 4.5 in Shaper Bars
• Custom Race-cut Windshield
• 68 Number Plates (Originally launched with white background, but changed to red for production after Tucker won National Snocross Championship)
• Race Running Board Edge Rolls
• Tether Switch
• 15 x 129 x 125-in 2-ply Ripsaw Track


My new to me, rough-around-the-edges 2015 ZR6000 Tucker Hibbert Race Replica

Like I said, my purchase is a little rough-around-the-edges. Its been a bit neglected, missing some of the stock parts and graphics, but underneath the cosmetics, the bones of this unit are in great shape after being ridden 4k miles. Its going to make a great rehab story, and I look forward to bringing this #68 back to its former glory. What should I do to it?

Its not a bad idea to refresh your 600 C-TEC2 engine when it hits the 4K mile mark. Although low numbers, there were cases of the piston skirts breaking. A refresh is cheap insurance to avoid destroying the engine.

For starters, before it left the dealership, Tom and I decided it was best to give the top end a refresh. You’ll find conflicting reports on the interwebs, but a general rule of thumb for these first year 600 C-TEC2 engines, is to refresh the top end around the 4K mile mark to avoid piston skirts breaking. To me, that was cheap insurance to avoid destroying entire engine.

The right side of this RR either battled with a young reckless Kody Kamm or skidded down some asphalt.

The right side is evidence of a young Kody Kamm trying to push this Tucker sled off the track, or maybe the sled sliding down some asphalt on its side…we’ll never know.

 The most obvious damage is the righthand side panel.

The most obvious damage, is the righthand Gen I body panel. Yep. That’ll need to be replaced. The lower hinge is busted clean off.

On a sidenote, I gotta say this: For those of you on the interwebs saying the 2012 Procross is the same as 2021, I beg to differ. The changes are numerous, for the better, including the bodywork. Spend two seconds trying to take off, and re-install, a Gen 1 side panel versus Gen II. I belted out more “C’mon Mans!” than a Biden speech. The GenII bodywork is soooo much nicer to deal with.

Seats gonna need a new cover. Time to call Rox Speed FX.

Based on the rip in the seat, Id say the previous owner spent most of their time riding “Up On the Bars” in true snocross fashion. What do you think? Replace with R-XC seat? Replace stock with custom Rox Speed FX cover?

Running boards and Rear Bumper were victim to some side damage

The rear bumper took some abuse. Replace with stock bumper? Ive been a fan of Racewerx bumpers and their quality/design for a long time. (Im leaning towards going the custom route.) It bums me out that the rear number plate assembly and storage bag are missing. Id like to get those back on.

The rear Tri-hub was still in great shape…possibly thinking about a 4th wheel kit. Any suggestions?

Upgrade ARS1 to ARSII front end?

Im not entirely sure what to do with the front end yet? The right side spindle and A-arms need to be replaced. I see many people asking how hard it is to upgrade to the ARS II front end. Should I do that?

The stock handguards are missing and the bars are bent, so Ill be placing an order with Rox Speed FX to upgrade both.



  1. Great buy! That’s going to be a nice rebuild and fantastic trail sled. Id like to see the ARSII front end swap. Can you use the stock Tucker shocks with that swap?

  2. Hard to imagine anyone would pay the price for that sled then neglect it. Do you know the actual build numbers of those Kale? For what its worth, I bought a J&T 4th wheel kit and have been happy with it for my 2017 ZR 6000.

  3. C’mon Man! Cut me some slack. Trump designed that Gen 1 bodywork. Good luck with your ski, your tracked vehicle, you know, your thing. The thing.

  4. You should write a story on how to tune those shocks. They were too stiff for my liking and far too complex. If Arctic Cat has done one thing right with FOX, it was introducing QS3 for dummies like me. Haha.

  5. Tucker’s sleds were some of the meanest looking on the track. Its tough to beat the intimidator look of black with accents of green. Whats your graphic plan? Don’t stray away from the Tucker theme, or else its just one more black sled with a circus wrap.

  6. Sharp sled! Though the Gen 1 bodywork is a bit tough to work with, I prefer the look of it to the Gen 2. To me the Gen 2 is just to “smooth”. I like the edgy look of the Gen 1. But yes, 2 is much more refined!

  7. Keep it all stock man… Refresh the top end end and add some Vforce reeds.. I am sure AC has some plates kicking around… Add new panels and get tucker to sign that puppy!!!

  8. Yep keep it stock. Don’t change a thing. Get it back to the sled in the factory picture with Tucker above with the red plates. If you change things then it will no longer be a Tucker Hibbert Race Replica like Tucker intended it to be.

  9. Give it your personal touch Kale and enjoy turning heads with the damn thing. I know its a limited edition, but who cares. You’d have to keep that thing another 20-30 years, and even then it won’t fetch the money like it would now. Look at the Blair Morgan edition ZRs. You can find those fairly cheap now and he’s one of the greatest with Tucker. Enjoy it!

  10. I don’t know if stock is in his vocabulary fellas. This is a guy who cut up a 51 Henry J survivor car. Those are rarer than hens teeth. Haha

  11. Go with the J/T 4 wheel kit, if you do not, that tri-hub will fail soon. It is a very high quality set up and adds a much better base load to the track tension at the rear. Good luck, take some time to do some tuning on those shocks, they have great capabilities for your riding style. I have the J/T kit on both of my Cats and i am very pleased.

  12. Your ARS II front end idea is good one Kale, that would be cool. And a Hot Dogger on the pipe for some fresh venison brats. I believe Tucker always had Hot Stuff pizza in the Hot Dogger on his race sled, at least during the finals.

  13. I have the list of parts necessary to update to the ARS II front end on my desk Kale. Remind me during the week, if you don’t feel like looking up the pieces yourself. I’ll second Tom’s Hot Dogger suggestion… oh, and I’ll add the idea of some chrome trim around the edges of the hood, like Tucker’s T&S X-games winning sled. Also, I like red number plates better than white ones…

  14. Keep it stock as it came from the factory. It wouldn’t be the same if you changed it all up. I would however, try different shocks on the fronts, the Float’s suck.

  15. I agree with the statements regarding shocks. High-flo pistons with valving from Carver for the riders weight will transform it from riding like a dump-truck on the trail.

  16. Only 4 wheel kits to use are from Larson Racing Products. All the other kits add a 10 mm bolt to the existing axle for the outboard wheels. The Larson kits use a HUGE axle that’s way heavier than ANY other kits! Go to and ask for Dean. he should be able to load pics. More money than the others, but once you see it, it’s well worth it.


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